Building the chaulks to hold the upright hull.

6-7 May 2017: I had decided that the next step after the reinforcement scaffolding had been emplaced was to build the chaulks or framing that will hold the hull up once its flipped.

I started out by figuring out the exact height from the skeg to the hull that is required for the boat to sit at and be level (approximately 9”). The skeg is not the full length throughout the hull so I measured it at its biggest point and figured to make the chaulks all level at that height. However I assumed that the bevel of the hull was the same all the way to the bow from the stern. Thus I set out making larger 18” chaulks at that exact bevel and height. Wow was I wrong, the bevel simply was not the same throughout and I ended up creating more single posted supports throughout. I also made supports for the keel that forked or cupped the keel at the pre-described height of the large parts of the skeg.

The reason it took me two days to the do this was a combination of my massive mistake and my wife sending me on a trip go get free used pressure treated lumber. Yet once I had determined to get the bevels exactly from hull at those pre-determined intervals with my bevel set, and having the time to cut and build the members. It actually went rather quickly and I can say that I am relatively pleased with the outcome. Hopefully it will work as well as it looks.

Building the shop reinforcements to flip the boat.

May 5 2017: Yes today was the day that my beautiful wife and I decided to hang the 2×6’s from the rafters as well as emplace the cedar posts.

The day started off early with Savannah and I going out to hang the 2×6’s from the rafters. This entailed me climbing the ladder with her lifting via a rope attached to the 2×6 over a rafter the member into place so I can screw it in. Actually this worked rather well and with me cutting plates or 2×6 scraps that attach the 2×6 reinforcements together we soon had the rafters tied together in short order.

What was next consisted of cutting, hoisting and attaching the aforementioned cedar poles to the 2×6 reinforcements. Doing this required me to measure at the pre –determined increments the exact height from the floor to the 2×6’s, and cutting the poles with my chainsaw as well as my sawzall to length. Attaching them required lifting the poles with a rope over rafters much like the 2×6’s and hammering them plum. Affixing the poles to the reinforcements had me using a 5” lag screw passing through the 2×6 into the pole. Thankfully having this done in my shop allowed me to use my pneumatic impact driver to drive the lag screws.

This entire exercise took all day, yet at the end of the day, Savannah and I are quite confident that the entire structure will now be able to flip the boat as required.

Scheming and Logging…

May 2 2017:

Long and hard day of work, but I believe it will pay off.

As I stated in my last post; the next project is to be the creation of a scaffold in order to flip the boat. I had gathered several 2×6’s at 8 feet to reinforce the raters of my shop. In this sense I plan on using the 2×6’s to link the rafters together on either side of the boat. Afterwards I will run posts (about six per side) from these 2×6’s to the floor in order to spread the weight the boat to the shop floor. Once this is complete I plan on using come-a-longs and pulleys to wench up the boat off the strong back in order to flip it.

The 2×6’s I had already from a previous project but the posts were presenting me with a problem. Either buying 4×6 or 4×4 posts would be expensive; even if I spliced them together out of requisite 2x materials. Yet I live on property that has an abundance of trees, such as red cedars. A few red cedar poles I had already cut down for using on another project, so I figured I could cut down a few more for the posts I need to support the rafters.

Living in the wood, I already have a chainsaw so I gathered my truck and some rope and off to the woods I went. Conveniently I have an outcropping of cedars next to my shop. Thus I cut down, de limbed, and pulled the selected poles to the shop so I could further cut them down to size. Deciding to cut them to a length of 12 feet so I could cut them down to the correct length of 10’ 7 or so inches once in the shop and the 2×6’s were already hung. Once cut to 12 feet, I either carried or dragged them into the shop.

At the end of this exhausting venture, I figured it was time to call it a day. Next on the to do list, I plan on attaching the 2×6’s to the rafters in order to get the proper distance for the poles to the floor.