Got out this afternoon and cut the nitches for the "inner keel"… this will be a double layer of 1×4 laid longitudinally down the centerline of the boat. In this picture I laid a couple of 1×3’s that were sitting around in the spot to see how it fit. Note that the notches are wider than a 1×4 to allow for limber holes.
Also spent a while cutting the notches for the sheer clamp… this is a double layer of 1×3 running at the sheer line. This is the edge of the hull where the hull turns to the deck. These will be similar to the chine logs although there will be more verticle curve involved.
Time = 2 hours
Just a quick fun one for the home boat builders… to get on the water it doesn’t always have to be steel, marine ply and epoxy 🙂
Make sure and check out the picture album.
A Florida based marine surplus site that might be worth checking if you are looking for lower cost boat gear.
FLOUNDER POUNDER MARINE SURPLUSÂ Â Â Â Â Â
*Surplus and Obsolete boat parts for your restoration*
Since I promised, and I know my adoring fan(s) just can’t wait, here’s some pictures in the daylight of the chine logs in place.
It may be a case of needing to “be there”, but it’s such a radical change in terms of really looking like a boat. My wife came out on the deck (where the second picture was taken from) this morning and immediately exclaimed that “it really looks like a boat!”.
Looks fairly true and fair in the daylight, much to my relief 🙂
Took a few minutes and measured and marked the notches for the inner keel. This will be two layers of 2×4 running longitudinally from frame B (at the bow) to the stern recessed into the frames. Each notch will be about 1.5″ wider than the nominal 3.5″ of a 1×4 board to allow for limber holes in each frame. This will allow any water in the bilge to move from section to section past the frames and collect in the lowest area, where the bilge pump can be set up to remove it. Hopefully this won’t be important, but…
Also got the tarp tied back on after having to toally remove it and all the tiedowns last night. Normally I can just flop it over and work, but I had to take it all the way off last night.
Time = 1 hour
Well, no more taking a piece to the garage now… I got the chine logs installed tonight. Had one real qualm concerning if it was all square, but decided it was and went for it. Finished in the dark with a worklight, so I don’t have pictures tonight. Somehow adding those two strips of wood radically changes the look to me… makes it much more a “complete” shape… kind of the wireframe look.
Having the glued up chine logs outside for a couple of days and partially curved to shape was a good thing, I think. They had taken the bow somewhat and bent into the shape very easily… looks pretty fair.
Also ordered another gallon worth of epoxy from John Greer. First gallon got me through frames and initial assembly… not bad.
Money (includes shipping) = $54
Time = 2.5 hours
I don’t put a lot of "for sale" stuff on here, but I thought this one was worth an exception. We covered Warren and Robin’s Great Loop cruise log a few weeks back. They have been underway for three months or so and have decided to sell their boat. No, they aren’t giving up already, rather they like it so much, they want a bigger boat.
Several factors make this really interesting to me:
- Their current boat is a Mark V 39 that has already made the loop once and which seems to still be going strong. The Pepi started life as Brad Indicott’s Leah Gent.
- Secondly, they are cruising the waters that I want to be on… the rivers and canals of the Great Loop.
- Lastly, the boat they are buying (see below)…
They are buying the first hull of the diesel/solar/electric hybrid Island Pilot DSe. I’ve been in touch with Warren and look forward to more information on their new boat, along with the continuing cruise log entries on their site.
So, check out their blog regardless of your desire for a new boat, but if you are looking for a good, proven cruiser, you might give them a ring.
We’ve followed this rather secretive craft for a while now (here, here and here). Now EcoTech (an interesting site if you are into various environmental and ecological interests) has a more detailed article with quite a few pictures and a couple of videos, including a "Press Preview".
I’m sure you’ve noticed if you are reading this on the page and not via RSS, but Craft A Craft has a new, totally different look. Hopefully you will enjoy this and find it easier to navigate and be overall less cluttered. Major topics can be found at the top (people seemed to have a problem finding them before).
There will still be some minor changes and cleanup, but I wanted to go ahead and toss this out.
Please toss in comments or drop me a note with your opinion! Especially if you find bugs, PLEASE let me know.
I find that tools are designed mostly for right handed use. I’m right handed, so that generally doesn’t bother me. I understand that you can even find a few "lefty" tools for the ones that really matter.
What I never really thought about is that the bias tends to have you work one way or the other. Often you will swap sides where you are standing or whatever to make the guides, etc. work out right.
That doesn’t work quite as well on a boat 🙂
It has two sides, and due to size and physical constraints, you sometimes will be "backwards" on at least half of it… just something else to consider.
Got the notches cut for the other chine log tonight. Didn’t get to dry fit it, but should be about ready to fasten them in place in a couple of days. Looking forward to that… I think having some permanent longitudinals will really stiffen things up.
Time = 1 hour
Got the saw out and made notches for the chine log on one side. Dane and I held it up a time or two and it seems like its going to fit fairly well. Marked the bevels for the first few frames so that I could cut the notches to those angles. That seems to look pretty good.
The aft end and attaching the chine logs to the transom baffled me a bit… I didn’t want to notch all the way through, so I routed out a section of the 1×6 for the chine, leaving the MDO/plywood at the stern intact. This leaves no "seam" at the corners, which just seems "right" to me.
Found one frame that was cocked and low by about 1/4" on one side. We all talk about the human eye being capable of finding things out of true better than other techniques.. its right. I could look and see that it was wrong, even though I hadn’t found the measurement being off with a tape measure.
Time = 2 hours