Will it stick?

Well, cut plywood/MDO for the next three frames and assembled most of the first 4 frames (one was already cut). One frame is missing a couple of pieces since the measurements are missing on the plans (actually, they are there, but they are given from the wrong baseline and there is no way that I can see to figure out the right size). Email sent off to the designer.

Mixed up a couple of small batches of epoxy and fastened it all together… hope it sticks!

ร‚ย 

Time = 3 hours

Cutting MDO – making frames

Well, didn’t get them glued up like I planned… life intruded and I spent 45 min. rappelling down my roof to get to the piece of trim that was blown lose in the storm the other night.

Anyway, we did get the plywood/MDO cut forร‚ย  frame/bulkhead A. Here it is laid out like it should look when glued.

The MDO was very nice… cut easily, didn’t feather out at all. Didn’t run across any voids. The overlay (paper cover) is primed, and the priming is pretty tough also. I can’t find where the paper ends and the wood begins… its really on there. I’ve put a scrap in the dishwasher to see how it holds up to water.

Time = 2 hours

MDO arrives

Well, the MDO showed up… I don’t think I got the Olympic Panel Products brand that I wanted, but I’m going to go with it for the frames. By the way, the Olympic Panel people are great! I fired off an email and promptly got an answer referring me to one of their staff that was knowledgeable about my questions. He promptly emailed also, and provided phone numbers and I had a good conversation with him.

I also want to compliment Sign Supply USA, Inc. for their good customer service and being generally nice to deal with. I have emailed them and called them, and now my wife has dealt with their delivery driver, and all the encounters have been pretty good. They have offices scattered all over, so you might check them out.

Anyway, I have 5 sheets of 4×8 plywood, pre-primed with a tough seeming light grey primer. Edge voids are a bit more than I wished for, but this is a good bit cheaper than the true "marine ply" and I think it will do well where I’m planning to use it.

After I cut this all up and have a bunch of frames and bulkheads, I’ll know more what I want to use for the hull panels themselves.

Movable Bridges in the British Isles

>>> Movable Bridges in the British Isles

Jason King at the Bristol Fashion: life afloat blog points us to this neat site… something I hadn’t considered is all of the various bridge designs in the British canal system.

If it’s a swing bridge, lift bridge, drawbridge, bascule bridge, sliding bridge, retractable bridge, curling bridge, rolling bridge, telescopic bridge, transporter bridge, counterweight bridge, boat lift or any other sort of movable bridge and is in the British Isles it belongs on this website, whether it is on a canal or river, in a dock or marina, or over the moat of a castle or fort. In time we intend to create a comprehensive historical and photographic record of movable bridges in the British Isles, with the help of supporters and contributors.

MDO coming and other work

Although things have been a little quiet, progress has been made and its fixing to get a lot busier.

I got the first of the MDO ordered yesterday and it should arrive tomorrow. This is certainly the largest expenditure so far.

Related to that, I’ve been trying to work out how best to lay out parts for cutting… any of this marine grade plywood/MDO/whatever you use is blasted expensive and you don’t want to waste it. In cutting the frame peices, I noticed that the side panels are somewhat narrower than I had in my mental picture. This leaves a strip of plywood to use somewhere. I had been nesting my parts for the frames, since that has to be built first, but not considering the hull covering. I may very well want to use part of even these early sheets as frame pieces with other parts for the hull and order more to finish out the entirety. I don’t want to wind up with a bunch of 1/2 sheets left over at the end of this process ๐Ÿ™‚

Also spent some time re-working my workbench. In the past I had a full size, industrial door mounted on hinges to the wall so that it could fold up against the wall. Great plan and worked well, except for two things… it was so heavy that my family couldn’t fold it, and it was always covered with "stuff" and couldn’t be folded anyhow. As the boat project moves forward, less of my work will be in the garage and more out back with the boat, so I wanted a more mobile solution. Decided to take the door and cut it into three pieces. One piece is about 36" square and remains mounted to the wall. The other two 18"x48" peices have become the tops of two different "mobile" workbenches. I used an old bakers rack for legs/shelves and it seems to work well. We’ll see how this goes down the road.

Money = $322.13

Restored Viking ship to sail North Sea

>>> Restored Viking ship to sail North Sea

Now that’s a classic

After 1,000 years, restored Viking ship to sail North Sea

An 11th-century Viking longship that has been reconstructed to its original condition will soon depart on a seven-week voyage from Denmark across the North Sea to her home port of Dublin, powered only by her sails.

The Havhingsten fra Glendalough (The Sea Stallion from Glendalough) is the largest Viking warship ever rebuilt.

Click for rest of article

Home made wind turbine

>>> Home made wind turbine

This is a great article with lots of pointers to other sites giving some good details on building your own wind turbine. Its geared around power for a small camper or other "in the field" situation, but I bet many of the ideas could be adapted for on-board use.

And it’s going to be much cheaper than commercial solutions if you are handy and can whip one up from eBay and lumberyard parts.