6-7 May 2017: I had decided that the next step after the reinforcement scaffolding had been emplaced was to build the chaulks or framing that will hold the hull up once its flipped.
I started out by figuring out the exact height from the skeg to the hull that is required for the boat to sit at and be level (approximately 9”). The skeg is not the full length throughout the hull so I measured it at its biggest point and figured to make the chaulks all level at that height. However I assumed that the bevel of the hull was the same all the way to the bow from the stern. Thus I set out making larger 18” chaulks at that exact bevel and height. Wow was I wrong, the bevel simply was not the same throughout and I ended up creating more single posted supports throughout. I also made supports for the keel that forked or cupped the keel at the pre-described height of the large parts of the skeg.
The reason it took me two days to the do this was a combination of my massive mistake and my wife sending me on a trip go get free used pressure treated lumber. Yet once I had determined to get the bevels exactly from hull at those pre-determined intervals with my bevel set, and having the time to cut and build the members. It actually went rather quickly and I can say that I am relatively pleased with the outcome. Hopefully it will work as well as it looks.
May 5 2017: Yes today was the day that my beautiful wife and I decided to hang the 2×6’s from the rafters as well as emplace the cedar posts.
The day started off early with Savannah and I going out to hang the 2×6’s from the rafters. This entailed me climbing the ladder with her lifting via a rope attached to the 2×6 over a rafter the member into place so I can screw it in. Actually this worked rather well and with me cutting plates or 2×6 scraps that attach the 2×6 reinforcements together we soon had the rafters tied together in short order.
What was next consisted of cutting, hoisting and attaching the aforementioned cedar poles to the 2×6 reinforcements. Doing this required me to measure at the pre –determined increments the exact height from the floor to the 2×6’s, and cutting the poles with my chainsaw as well as my sawzall to length. Attaching them required lifting the poles with a rope over rafters much like the 2×6’s and hammering them plum. Affixing the poles to the reinforcements had me using a 5” lag screw passing through the 2×6 into the pole. Thankfully having this done in my shop allowed me to use my pneumatic impact driver to drive the lag screws.
This entire exercise took all day, yet at the end of the day, Savannah and I are quite confident that the entire structure will now be able to flip the boat as required.
May 2 2017:
Long and hard day of work, but I believe it will pay off.
As I stated in my last post; the next project is to be the creation of a scaffold in order to flip the boat. I had gathered several 2×6’s at 8 feet to reinforce the raters of my shop. In this sense I plan on using the 2×6’s to link the rafters together on either side of the boat. Afterwards I will run posts (about six per side) from these 2×6’s to the floor in order to spread the weight the boat to the shop floor. Once this is complete I plan on using come-a-longs and pulleys to wench up the boat off the strong back in order to flip it.
The 2×6’s I had already from a previous project but the posts were presenting me with a problem. Either buying 4×6 or 4×4 posts would be expensive; even if I spliced them together out of requisite 2x materials. Yet I live on property that has an abundance of trees, such as red cedars. A few red cedar poles I had already cut down for using on another project, so I figured I could cut down a few more for the posts I need to support the rafters.
Living in the wood, I already have a chainsaw so I gathered my truck and some rope and off to the woods I went. Conveniently I have an outcropping of cedars next to my shop. Thus I cut down, de limbed, and pulled the selected poles to the shop so I could further cut them down to size. Deciding to cut them to a length of 12 feet so I could cut them down to the correct length of 10’ 7 or so inches once in the shop and the 2×6’s were already hung. Once cut to 12 feet, I either carried or dragged them into the shop.
At the end of this exhausting venture, I figured it was time to call it a day. Next on the to do list, I plan on attaching the 2×6’s to the rafters in order to get the proper distance for the poles to the floor.
20-30 April 2017
Well these past few days have been exciting, interesting and almost terrifying. I finished fairing the hull, or at least the parts I cared to ensure were good and faired. Completing this task, I went ahead and had my wife pick a five gallon bucket of paint and some primer from Lowes. This time I wanted to get the same color accept have it finish glossy as opposed to matte. Ironically enough, my wife had a similar experience with the Lowes paint attendees at a different store. They gave her a lot of grief and at times were exceptionally rude; thanks to her patience and perseverance we got the paint we needed.
Rolling on the primer was pretty easy and I discovered that I would need to use a brush to cut in by the keel and along the hull during painting. About an hour later I had the hull completely primed, but being that it was a pretty muggy due to all the rain; thus it was unlikely to finish drying that day. So I figured I’d have to wait to start painting until the next day.
The following day, I began painting the hull with that awesome color I had picked out from Lowes. Being a prior Navy man, I wanted something along a grayish hue for the hull in order to somewhat mimic a warship. Finished out the gallon I had from my paint experiment, the matte finish gray. Since it had been a bit drier, the paint cured much faster and I was able to roll on a second coat of the new gloss grey paint the same day.
During my examination of the second coat drying, I discovered a spot on the bottom of the hull near the stern on the starboard side was blistering. I pressed it with my thumb and found it to be extremely soft; I therefore decided to cut it away to see the extent of the issue. It turned out to be about a quarter size area that had come loose from the plywood. Inspecting the area around it, all seamed well and secure, I therefore decided to mix up a bit of epoxy and talc to fill the hole. Figuring that as this dried, I could come out the next day, sand and re roll the area. So I proceeded to mix up the epoxy and fill the hole, sanding the plywood first to ensure a good seal.
On the next morning, I determined that the epoxy had done the job somewhat but it was still a bit squishy. So I mixed up another batch of epoxy and applied it over the area again in hopes of reinforcing it. However not deciding to waste another day on epoxy, I decided to roll the last coast of paint, avoiding the repaired area. The last coat of paint rolled on very well and I can say I am pleased with the color and application. Hopefully the repair job will seal up well enough and I can roll that last area and finish the painting completely.
Next on the docket is to start reinforcing my shops rafters and creating a scaffold type reinforcement to the floor so I can flip the boat. My dad will be coming down in a few weeks to help me flip it, yet I am confident the shop will be ready by then.
Well shipmates, it would seem that I was wrong on my estimation of the flex seal stuff. I have attached the video I uploaded to my YouTube channel to explain. It should give a pretty decent rundown of where I will be going from here as it pertains to the hull fairing and painting.
12-14 April 2017: Big accomplishment as of late shipmates, clothing of the hull is complete! Yes that’s right; the nightmare of dealing with epoxy soaked polyester cloth is over! To this all I can personally say is thank God and I will have a beer!
The following day after inspecting the final bit of cloth application, I decided to begin creating fairing compound (Talc and Epoxy) to blend the “seams”. With a lot of these seams looking horrendous and craggy, for the first round of application I decided to mix and apply it thick. Of course this meant several trips to and from my epoxy station to mix the copious amounts of fairing epoxy required. Applying this gray goo to the hull took up most of the afternoon, yet it meant tomorrow I will likely be able to begin sanding (oh the joys of sanding!).
Next morning, I went to the shop after doing a bit of classwork and began the long and tiresomely tedious process of sanding. However compared to the nerve wracking and frustrating cloth and epoxy task, sanding took on a whole new and positive light. Being covered with dust is far less annoying and easier to remove than epoxy. I remember after my several rounds of clothing the hull, I would shower head to toe with Fast Orange to ensure I removed every bit of the devilish goo. Even then I was often surprised to find that some of the relentless stickum had stuck around afterwards.
Sanding seemed to go rather well enough, so I applied a second lighter coat of fairing compound to the stem with every intention of applying it to the transom area as well. Yet after the first and exceedingly smooth application on the stem, I had a revelation. It may not be entirely necessary to apply the fairing mix to the stern just yet. The primer and paint may do a good enough job of hiding any left-over imperfections to not warrant a second application of the compound. So tomorrow I plan on going to Lowes to get a gallon of this paint and primer to see how well it does, after all I can always sand it away and apply more compound if necessary.
7 April 2017: Ahoy all! Well I returned from my makeup drill with the guard to more school work. Yuck!
Yet I was able before I left to apply the fill in polyester strips along what will be the port side of the hull. That was somewhat easier than before yet it sure did suck up almost every last bit of epoxy to get it done. However it was a bit tricky to flatten and smooth out as it kept wanting to bunch and crinkle up.
When I got back from Joplin I was able to determine how well the strip job had dried out. For the most part it seems to have hardened well and good to the areas I applied it. The exceptions being those folds and crinkles that had also dried into the cloth. The forward parts of the strips, around the bow look particularly “craggy”. I therefore decided today to utilize what remaining epoxy I had left to create filler or fairing compound to see it I could faire those areas out. Figured I would keep the fairing compound somewhat runny so that it would soak into any areas that were somewhat epoxy starved.
After allowing this round of fairing compound to dry, it seams that it will be possible to fair out the seams and craggy areas. Yet it will no doubt take more than one application in the rougher areas.
While I was away my wife and I decided we could go ahead and order two more gallons of epoxy and hardener. UPS says that this order should arrive Tuesday of next week. This is the epoxy order that I hope will allow me to finish sheeting and fairing the hull.
This cloth and epoxy method of sheeting and waterproofing a hull has definitely lost its allure to me. While there are no doubt serious benefits to be had, and the issues I have run into can be chalked up to being an amateur. I detest the sticky gooey of the epoxy and the complications that means for application on the cloth. Thus I have decided that I will for my next boat PLANK it rather than use plywood and epoxy. I am sure this will bring its own set of challenges, however at least I can stay clear of applying epoxy to cloth.
2 April 2016: Well I was able to get the keel and skeg epoxied with cloth but that was about it.
What a nightmare that turned into. Trying to get the cloth to lay well against the angle of the hull to the keel was ever so difficult. It kept trying to pop up and I wasted more epoxy than I should have. Also the notion of leaving enough of the side pieces I dry to I could wet seam them turned out to be ultimately nil. The epoxy on the sides dried nicely but it created folds and bubbles in the unwetted areas that could not be flattened out. So I decided to cut the unwetted stuff off and I plan on using strips of cloth to fill in the gap between the keel area and the side pieces.
Simply put I ran out of time today after I got the keel and skeg done to do any more. Further I have a makeup drill Tuesday and Wednesday of this week which I am leaving for Monday night. So I will not be able to attend to any of this until Thursday at the earliest. It’s looking pretty shaky right now if I will be able to start painting next weekend.
So Thursday of this week, the tentative plan is to cut and epoxy the strips of cloth into the areas they need to do along the hull. As well as cut and epoxy cloth for the inner transom (motor well area) and the stem. The stem may prove tricky, but the motor well area should be a breeze compared to the keel and skeg. Of course we shall have to see how this pans out lol!
1 April 2017: Well what a day shipmates. Since I woke up, I have been in the shop.
I started by warming up the shop to at least 60 degrees with the stove and my space heaters. Not only for my comfort but to ensure I was well above the 55 degree threshold for my epoxy. After that I took some paint measuring buckets that I bought at Lowes over to my epoxy station. The thought to buying these relied on the fact they were labeled with units of measurement, so I could figure out my 3 to 1 ratio with larger quantities of hardener and resin. After some fiddling with it, it worked out pretty good.
The fabric had done rather well taking on the shape of the hull naturally overnight, and I was eager to get started. When I mixed my first large batch of un-thickened epoxy I soon found out that the roller system was somewhat slower and less economical all around than the putty knives. Further the bow turned out to be problematic as I had not cut the fabric to fit and left it just lobbed over the top. This made things tricky as it did not want to cut into the corner between the keel and hull. So I went ahead and trimmed it to where it laid right up next to the keel. I figure when I overlay the keel area with fabric it will overlap and create a good seam.
The stern was a tad tricky as well. I had cut the cloth last night to allow for me to overlap them and create a seam along the side. Yet this was once again somewhat difficult and I had to apply copious amount of epoxy and trim extra cloth to get it to stay.
I carried on into the evening and ended up stopping around six. I was able to get the other side of the bow epoxied yet I decided to stop around a quarter of the way down the hull on that side. Reason for this was because the weather said it was going to get below 55 tonight and I do not think my heaters can keep the temperature in the shop up all night long. So I figured allowing what I had done sufficient time at 55 degrees was more prudent. I plan on picking back up tomorrow where I left off and continuing.
I hope to get the hull clothed this weekend so I can have it ready to paint by next weekend. My buddy and his wife are coming over to help with the painting; which is good because I hate painting. Unfortunately I have drill this week (it’s a makeup drill) so I will be out for Tuesday and Wednesday. God willing we will be able to make the hull ready for paint by next weekend.